Transplanting Triumph

I Can Move That - A Transplanting Triumph

I had scored an end of the season deal on a specimen Stewartia I had been keeping my eyes on. I’m not sure what I was thinking when I planted it, but apparently did not consider tree growth. The neighboring juvenile Linden tree was enjoying its undisturbed, wood chipped root area and expressing itself accordingly. It would only be a matter of time before it would dominate Stew. Perhaps I thought I would have moved on to greener arboretums before then, but here I am.

Putting the “pro” in procrastinates, time passed like it always does and I continued to happily ignore the insidious goings on in my front yard. I no longer noticed the fabulous white blossoms and mosaic bark that Stew was offering up. The Linden had somehow grown bigger, and Stew was losing his relevance. I suppose I could have pruned the Linden back, but that would only be a temporary fix. Besides, I was grateful for the screening it provided from my neighbors wood farm and min-van, which has been slowly sinking into the earth for the last 15 years.

Meanwhile, 20 or so feet away, a Norway maple adjacent to the driveway was playing out its slow agonizing spiral to death. I have been on this property over 20 years. In that time, it has shrunk considerably. A RCX done in 2006 revealed serious girdling root issues, a “damned if you do, damned if you don't” decision.  I went with “don’t’” (it’s easier), and decided to let things take their course.

Channeling the Knight from Monty Pythons Holy Grail, the tree continued to shed parts, yet still stubbornly put out foliage. “I’m not dead yet” it seemed to exclaim. So I disregarded its decrepit appearance and let the death spiral proceed until a discarded chunk nearly bounced off my squash. Festooned with more dead parts than a Zombie movie warehouse, my chain-sawed hand was forced. The time had come to say farewell.

Finishing up with the stump cutter, I stood and contemplated the void left behind. The site would be perfect for a small to medium sized tree. Where might I acquire a specimen worthy of such prominent placement? Twenty feet away, I could sense Stew practically ripping himself out of the ground and shaking his little limbs all akimbo. I kid Stew of course; his promotion to celebrity status was the obvious choice, and I began to ponder my approach.

I knew the soil here to be excellent for digging. Eight to twelve inches of clean loam sits over sandy-clay subsoil. I was anticipating fairly uniform root distribution, made up primarily of small fibrous roots. Being late November, the timing couldn’t have been better. The soil was moist, but not saturated. The temperature was cold, but above freezing.  

I took a measurement of the tree caliper to determine the size of the root ball. The 4” caliper tree would require a 40-45” root ball that would weigh in the neighborhood of 1,500 pounds. Hmmm. I planned to move this tree with my mini skid-steer, a.k.a. “Dave”, which is rated to lift 500 pounds or so. This would be a problem. I probably should have gotten a bigger machine, but that would have been wiser, easier and therefore, out of character. Besides, this is not the first time Dave and I bit off more that we could masticate, and I had a plan.

Many moons ago, we moved a fairly large Japanese red maple through a pool area with limited access. I thought I could employ the same tactics to move Stew, and began to dig. The excavating was agreeable. I exposed the root ball parameters, and cleanly cut any exposed roots. Hopes and dreams realized, a fibrous, uniform hub and spoke shaped root system was revealed. I was becoming increasingly confident the tree might be successfully moved without missing a beat.

Although I was feeling good, there was still the slight matter of the extra 1000 or so pounds that would need shedding. My plan was to free root from soil, from the outside in, until a manageable weight was obtained. I’m not sure if it was the time or the money it would have taken to rent an air-compressor, but I walked right passed my fancy air tool and grabbed my father’s ancient pitchfork to do the job.

I went around and around the ball until dizzy, loosening the soil and pruning roots as needed. After a ramp was created, I was able to access and cut the bottom of the root ball with the forks. Dave slipped under and began to coax Stew out of his hole. It took a few more circuits around the root ball with the pitchfork before I was able get enough lift to schlep the tree 20 feet to its new home.

I got lucky with the pre dug hole, and the root flare remained slightly above grade when settled in. The roots were backfilled with the existing soil, and flooded to form sludge. Only light tamping was done to fill air pockets. I finished grading around the tree as darkness fell. Ignorant of the latest weather forecasts, I was a tad dismayed to have the evening feature heavy rains and strong winds. I did not stake the tree, and am too old to go out in weather to tend to such things. I would leave it to the Gods.

The morning broke sunny and windy. The tree still stood, much to my relief. I gave it a shake to see it there was much movement, and found it to be solid. The core soil ball along with integration of the fibrous roots and soil sludge was enough to secure it firmly to the earth. This tree may well escape the transplant shock that can come with moving larger trees. I surely lost many fine roots, but believe the majority of the root system remained intact and viable.

Tis being the season, we could not resist taking advantage of the new sentinel adorning the entryway to the estate. Stew (now only answering to “Stewart”) is currently decked out in a splendid sequined suit, appendages alight for all to admire. After the lights are removed, the handsome exfoliating bark will hold sway. Come spring, dark lustrous foliage emerges and forms a backdrop for the late white summer flowers lying in wait. Stew has found his place in the sun. Shine on Stew, shine on.

Tubhubub: Bathing in a Neighboring Beech’s Critical Root Zone

 Originally published in TCIA Magazine.

In retrospect, the fact that the client answered the door in a speedo gave credence to the whole case. In this well-heeled town, many hurdles were overcome to get permission to install the in-ground hot tub. A nifty design was introduced, slogged its way through innumerable boards and committees, and was eventually approved. Mr. Speedo was ready to go, but his elation was brief.

Next door, Attorney Killjoy, a major obstacle in the path to tubby nirvana, threw out one more Hail Mary to prevent construction from commencing. The redeemer, a large European copper beech on his property, lay close to the boundary line.

The edge of the proposed spa area lay 22 feet from the trunk of the 48” dbh specimen. In between lay a downward slope planted with groundcover, a fairly recent bluestone walkway, a line of shrubs, and 2 fences within 2 feet of each other. Plans for the spa experience included a row of 6-7’ evergreen shrubs between the spa and the slope. Given the sunken tub and the screening between the properties, Mr. Speedo appeared to do everything reasonable to spare the neighbor of any unwanted moonshots.

Despite it all, Attorney Killjoy sued the Town and Mr. Speedo, citing that considerable damage would be inflicted on the root system of his beloved beech tree, and no tubbing should be allowed.

Wow! Back in my hometown of Hooterville, implying you might have the right to stop your neighbor from digging a hole twenty plus feet from the property line would be met with some hardy guffaws. I was not in Kansas anymore.

Attorney Killjoy produced a report by another arborist warning of potential structural damage, death, and carnage: “Wherever the roots are cut, this will create a “weak link” in the structural integrity of the tree. If strong winds blow against a tree on the side where major roots have been cut, there is a strong probability that the tree will topple”.

And: “The combination of both projects (tub and shrub) would almost certainly lead to the rapid decline of the tree”.

Finally: It is worth noting that dual injuries (to wit, the excavation requisite to the installation of the Pool, and the excavation necessary to install 6-ft tall screening) may result in loss of structural integrity of the Tree. In other words, if critical roots are severed in the process, the tree may be prone to failure, especially in the event of high winds.

The above prose also included a completely unrelated image of a dramatic up-rooted tree failure. Holy crap! Close the windows, bolt the door, and secure the women and children!

Back when I was a young buck, I knew many things. I now know less than ever. Many trees I had considered an imminent failure 25 years before mock me and my wrinkled carcass as I shuffle on by them.

Attorney Killjoys’ arborist suggests that major damage, resulting in rapid decline and the possibility of whole tree failure of this considerable specimen may be the result of a 4 foot long cut, made 22 feet from the tree.

So let’s look at the facts here. Attorney Killjoys arborist discusses the Critical Root Zone of the tree. This zone may be anywhere from 1 to 1.5 feet for each 1” of diameter depending on tree species, age, and condition. The CRZ assumes a fairly uniform soil and moisture environment such as you may find in a park or rural area. Urban and suburban environments are frequently disturbed. There is often no telling what may be underground. Fill, utility trenches, compacted areas, irrigation, soil types, hardscape, and other factors all present uncertainties. As it was, the existing “CRZ” here already contained a driveway, retaining wall, walkway, fence posts, plantings, lawn areas, and a house. Roots are opportunistic, and will proliferate wherever conditions are most favorable. How can we know for sure what’s what?

Being a man of action, I boldly suggested what no one else had the audacity to; “Let’s dig a hole and see what’s what”. Brilliant! Mr. Grapesmuggler got out the plans and we located the edge of where construction would take place. I rolled up my sleeves and got out the high tech digging tools from the trunk of my trusty 04’ Honda. I dug a sweet trench, 1 foot wide, 4 feet long, and 14” deep before I hit an existing drainage pipe lying in a bed of gravel. I took photos of the trench, rootlets and the root pieces removed from the trench. There were plenty of them in the rich, loamy soil. Grass roots, shrub roots and tree roots proliferated, but none over ¼” in diameter. The question of structural stability had been reasonably addressed. If an extended trench were created within an undisturbed area in the CRZ, I would have concerns. The area between the proposed spa and the tree had been disturbed countless times, and the length of the excavation was minimal. IMHO, this project would have little to no impact on the tree.

I was not sure what to make of it all. Attorney Killjoy had no problem with two fences, plantings, and a walkway previously installed on Mr. Beanbags property. All are far closer to the tree, and certainly more injurious. Is the threat of Mr. Speedo in a speedo that distressing? Will he have to sell the house?

I was not allowed on Attorney Killjoys side of the fence, so I bravely stepped out into the public roadway, whipped out my creepy paparazzi lens, and began taking pictures of the tree to document what kind of love Mr. Killjoy was bestowing upon it. A rather irate individual, bathrobe attired and hair askew emerged from the abode, and took photos of me taking photos. Good thing my hair was just right that day!

The root collar was not visible and appeared to have been filled over. A stone retaining wall lay less than two feet from the trunk, adjacent to an asphalt driveway. Shrubs were planted around the base. A large limb had been recently removed from the lower trunk. Evidence of phytopthera canker along with a large mechanical wound was also apparent.

Hmm…if Attorney Killjoy loves this tree so much, he should be more concerned with his side of the fences! Beech trees are especially sensitive to disturbance of the root zone. It is fairly remarkable this tree is still viable given the constraints.

Turning to the digital world, I was able to pull up images of the tree from 3 years earlier. The missing limb was plainly seen happily overhanging the driveway. Perhaps it was shading the house and grass too much?

I reckoned Attorney Killjoy’s arborist, apocalyptic in his thoughts about the tub excavation, would have advised his client that careful consideration should be given before the removal of live wood on any mature tree. The balance achieved to support its mass is tenuous. Beech trees are fair compartmentalizers at best, and large cuts should be avoided. Besides opening the lower trunk up to pathogens, removal of a significant portion of the crown has reduced photosynthetic area and increased the possibility of sun scald to an already stressed tree.

While operation tubby may have some negative effect, it is infinitesimal compared to what’s been going on next door.

I discussed my thoughts with Mr. Nuthut and figured case closed, but was soon after reliving my site visit and inspired trench digging with his attorney. A memorandum was created, debated, dated and instated. I figured case closed, but was soon again reliving my site visit and inspired trench digging with Attorney Killjoys attorney during a two hour deposition. I followed my attorney’s instructions carefully:

• Wait for the questioner to completely finish the question (for me, like suppressing flatulence).
• Pause and wait for a possible objection to the question (still holding….).
• Answer truthfully and say as little as possible (ahhhhh).  

If you have not been deposed or probed in court, you may find inconceivable the number of ways a question can be asked. Kind of like former President Clinton debating what “is” is.  As you might imagine, many attorneys are angling for you to substantiate their pre-conceived position, or somehow contradict yourself and look dumb-ass. Stay calm. It’s not personal, and you’re getting paid by the hour. Let your attorney be your guide.

A court date was to be set, but the judge put a stop to the tomfooleries before I could further pad my fee.  He directed that guidelines for reducing any impact to the beech tree during construction shall be created, debated and instated. An independent certified arborist would be on site during excavations, which would be done by hand. Case closed. Project Tubby ensues.

Ok, that’s all well and good, but it left me wondering where this will all go. The Massachusetts Self Help rule, long a staple in tree law, goes wayyyyy back:

Id. at 233, citing Bliss v. Ball, 99 Mass. 597, 598 (1868). “it is wiser to leave the individual to protect himself, if harm results to him from this exercise of another's right to use his property in a reasonable way, than to subject that other to the annoyance, and the public to the burden, of actions at law, which would be likely to be innumerable and, in many instances, purely vexatious."

This basically implies (I think) that a property owner may prune off limbs and roots of neighbor's trees which intrude into his land and prevent him from using his property in a reasonable (whatever that is) way. The “Hawaii rule” goes one step further, stating “when overhanging branches or protruding roots actually cause, or there is imminent danger of them causing, sensible harm to property other than plant life," a property owner "may require" the tree owner to pay for the damages and to cut back the branches or roots.

So, what kinds of restrictions are reasonable to impose upon a property owner because of a neighboring tree? As living spaces get more congested and land values skyrocket, how will we manage border trees? Arborists will be asked to provide objective opinions in high stakes cases. Can a balance be met between personal property rights and tree preservation?

Thousands were spent, but Mr. Speedo prevailed in the Tubby War, and the constitutional right to bare arms and other stuff. Personally, I would have deep-sixed the spa, then acquire an inflatable pool, some Mr. Bubble, and the three-bean salad. Perhaps I’ve lived in Hooterville too long…

Insects Pests to Watch for

The Winter moth is a pesMale winter motht often seen in areas of the North Shore. They will feed on many deciduous hosts, but seem to prefer fruit trees (productive and ornamental) maple, ash and oak. Multitudes of flying males emerge from the ground around Thanksgiving, looking to mate with the flightless females. The females lay their egg casings in cracks and crevices in the tree trunk. Tiny caterpillars emerge just as deciduous buds swell, and worm their way into the bud. 

 Young caterpillarThe feeding begins immediately and can cause serious leaf and flower damage before they get a chance to open. The caterpillars will continue to feed until early June, when they will drop to the ground and pupate in the soil. The moths will emerge in the late fall, and the cycle begins again. Treatment is available, but timing is crucial.

Damage on Oak

A completely defoliated White pineThe Gypsy moth is making a strong return. This disturbingly unpleasant pest has no serious predatory threats and can defoliate a large tree in a weeks time. Gypsy moth larvae prefer hardwoods, but may feed on several hundred different species of trees and shrubs. In the notheast, the gypsy moth prefers oaks, apple, speckled alder, basswood, gray and white birch, poplar, willow, and hawthorn, although other species are also affected, especially during heavy infestations.

Older larvae feed on several species of hardwood that younger larvae avoid, along with hemlock, pines and native spruces. During periods when gypsy moth populations are dense, larvae feed on almost all vegetation. Gypsy moth egg masses are laid on branches and trunks of trees but egg masses may be found in any sheltered location. The hatching of gypsy moth eggs coincides with budding of most hardwood trees. Larvae emerge from egg masses from early spring through mid-May. When population numbers are dense, larvae feed continuously day and night until the foliage of the host tree is stripped. Then they crawl in search of new sources of food.

Females laying eggsFrom mid-June and early July. The larva enter the pupal stage, during which larvae change into moths. Pupation lasts from 7 to 14 days. Pupation takes place under flaps of bark, in crevices, under branches, on the ground, and in other places where larvae rested.  When population numbers are dense, pupation will take place in sheltered and non-sheltered locations, even exposed on the trunks of trees or on foliage of nonhost trees.

The male gypsy moth emerges first, flying in serpentine patterns searching for females. When heavy, egg-laden females emerge, they emit a pheromone that attracts the males  The female lays her eggs in July and August, then both adult gypsy moths die.

Four to six weeks later, embryos develop into larvae. The larvae remain in the eggs during the winter. The eggs hatch the following spring.

Stumped - Appraising the Tree That Isn't There

Originally published in TCIA Magazine.

The homeowner heard the sounds of chainsaws in the distance. She didn’t think too much of it until there was a knock on the door. A member of a tree cutting crew, working on the adjacent property, was seeking permission to access her property to clean up some of the brush they had created. The homeowner accompanied the worker to the sloping horse pasture behind the barn. There, in the middle of the pasture, lay a huge Swamp white oak (Quercus bicolor) in the process of dismemberment. Forty feet away, an equally impressive Red Oak (Quercus rubra) still stood, with 40 percent of the crown already removed by the aerial lift operator.

Oh, the horror. I can’t imagine the look on this poor woman’s face as she took in the sight. Not only were the fallen tree and other tree parts laying on her property, they were her trees!

I am by no means imaginable an appraisal expert, but have done enough of them to make some observations. Tree appraisals frequently have two things in common. One, they are often on or near property borders, and two, by the time you get to the site, a stump is often all you have to go on. I have become an adept stump photographer, and have a dazzling array of stump imagery in varying modes of undress.

Back in the day, this may have been a futile mission. One would have to hope some film-based image could be dug up with a blurry blob indicating the tree in the background, or that trees of the same age and species were found nearby. You may even have purchased aerial photos from the USGS and unearthed the stereoscope for that 3D experience.

The digital age certainly has its pros and cons, but in terms of tree appraisal, it is a blessing indeed. A recent case was settled before it even got going thanks to Google Earth. The tree in question that had been removed could be seen clearly through the Street View application, dead as a doornail.

Tree appraisal can be a daunting task. When I first started doing this, I felt overwhelmed and under-qualified. Eventually, the tree-guy persona took the reins (not necessarily a good thing). A 35 year arborist, I have sat through the seminars, kept up on current practices, and obtained accreditations. Surely, I could do this. I mean, how hard could it be?

To paraphrase Mr. Joe McNeil: “Plant appraisal. It ain’t rocket science, it’s harder”

It is often said that the Guide for Plant Appraisal, 9^th Edition (the “Guide”), is the King James for the practice. Dog eared, coffee stained editions are found on every plant appraiser’s desk. The information within is essential, but as it is often stated, the Guide is just that, a guide. Appraisal is an opinion of value. True tree appraisal lies in using all available data, along with the Guide and other resources, to arrive at a rational, defensible value that can be quantified to a reasonable degree. Create a clear path and use reasoning that can be followed by others in arriving at the end figure.

When I arrived at the site, the disfigured Northern Red Oak still stood, a ghastly reminder of the carnage imposed. I met with the client to discuss the history of events, and the benefits these trees had provided her. All that remained of the Swamp white oak was an impressive stump, but it still had a tale to tell.

The first order of business was to positively identify the tree. As it had stood alone, I was able to use surrounding leaf and branch debris, along with bark and wood characteristics to positively identify the species. Photographs of the tree on the ground also helped with ID. As an added bonus, several other swamp white oaks were thriving nearby. I measured the diameter of the stump at its highest point. I would use this measurement, and correlate it with measurements taken from a nearby oak to estimate the DBH (diameter at breast height).

The size of the tree advocated the use of the Trunk Formula Method (TFM) as described in the Guide, to obtain value. TFM is used when a tree is too large to be replaced using conventional methods. TFM derives value based on the cost of the largest commonly available installed tree, which is then adjusted according to the subject trees’ size, species, condition, and location.

After identifying the species, it was time to turn to assessing Condition. I started, as always, with the root zone, moving up to the buttress and root collar, recording my observations. No other trees or remaining stumps were evident within the immediate area. Strong buttress root formations plunged into the earth along a rock wall separating two pastures where the root zone was fairly undisturbed. Consistent, symmetrical and healthy growth rings were evident throughout its 80 plus year life, with no signs of decay or wounding.

With the time machine in the shop, I would need to rely on other evidence to estimate the condition of the rest of the tree. Perhaps Doc Brown can get it running, but parts are difficult to find for the DeLorean, and I’m not sure he’s real anyway.

Fortune smiled down upon me. There, down the hill to the north, stood a beautiful line of Swamp White Oak, running east to west. The lobed leaves shimmered in the wind, the lighter colored undersides rendering a hallucinatory effect. Sixty five feet from my 32 inch stump, a specimen of 34 inches (measured at the same height) stood its’ ground. I would use this tree, along with those nearby, to estimate the DBH and Condition factor of the subject tree. I moved through the assessment worksheet, commenting on trunk condition, branching structure, and foliage health.

I then addressed the Location factors: Site, Contribution, and Placement. The Site and Placement factors did not require the physical presence of the rest of the tree to determine. However, due to placement, the major contribution was for aesthetic value. More information regarding the trees condition and appearance would be a valuable complement to the assessment.

While I am sure there are more sophisticated data sites available, a surprising amount of information is available through, Google Earth, Google Maps and Bing Maps. Google Earth offers features such as historical imagery or viewing the site at different times of day. Bing Maps offers a “Birds eye view” option providing an oblique view with surprising clarity. In many areas, Google Maps “Street view” application gives the viewer control of the camera, almost as if walking down the streets. You can literally zoom in to look down driveways or between houses to view backyard trees (close the curtains, you hot yoga enthusiasts). You will often be able to view your ghost tree from different perspectives, and at different times of year. Another important resource is the client. Ask if they have any pictures or video of the trees that may feature them directly or in the background.

Using the fore-mentioned resources, some pretty good views of the missing oak were realized. I was able to view it in dormancy from oblique angles and different directions, revealing a well-structured tree with classic symmetry. Photographs of the tree on the ground provided by the client displayed the color and density of the foliage at the time of the cutting. Using this data along with observations of existing trees on site, I felt confident in my evaluation of the trees’ condition and my ability to defend my opinions.

I have gone on to do more appraisals this way, the last three reports featuring many captivating stump photos. You will not always be afforded relevant imagery, but may be surprised at what is revealed, or what you may learn (beware, you “medical” marijuana growers).

Appraisal is an art and science. A resolve to remain unbiased in your opinions and forthcoming with deficiencies must be maintained to afford credibility. You will need perceptive skills of observation and an ability to utilize past experiences and acquired knowledge. Be confident, yet humble. Appraising large trees is a challenge, especially if they’re not there.

Beech-Nut

 Originally published in TCIA Magazine.

 “Since youthful lovers in my shade

Their vows of truth and rapture made

And on my trunks surviving frame

Carved many a long forgotten name…”

From Thomas Campbell’s 1805 poem, “The Beech Tree’s Petition”

It was unlikely we would have much in common. The old-school, Yankee octogenarian and I were tooling around the property in his golf cart, a painful occurrence of gout limiting his mobility. Mr. V’s gruff manor was somewhat off-putting, but this was a beautiful estate, full of mature, specimen trees. It would be foolish to let the opportunity pass.

 We stopped at numerous sites, assessing and discussing the various trees. As we cruised along, a fondness for some of his charges became more apparent, but never more so than when we rolled to a stop under a magnificent European Copper Beech. Ninety feet tall and about as wide, the specimen nicely complemented the stately residence. The deep maroon color stood out boldly in the landscape. Dappled layers of light shimmered off the silver bark. As we both sat in silent admiration, a connection was made. I went on to care for Mr. V’s trees until his death, and continue to do so for his family today.

 I don’t know if there is a more inviting tree to climb. The low reaching scaffolds offering a stairway to heaven. No rough fissures, thorns or sap. The bark is smooth and cool to the touch. The limbs seem to be just the right distance apart and strong enough to let you ascend to the sky.

 In Sweden, the word “bok” translates to both “beech tree” and “book”. Beech-wood writing tablets were used in early Germanic culture before paper. With the advent of writing, knowledge could now be recorded, stored, and passed on. Hence, the Druids linked Beech with the mystical powers embodied in written wisdom. There is, of course, the other mystical property as an ingredient in Budweiser (Beech-wood aged).  

 The European beech (Fagus sylvatica) is native to parts of Denmark, Norway and Sweden. Some research suggests its spread through continental Europe is linked to agricultural patterns. The purple variety was found growing naturally in three or four places in central Europe, the first written accounts appearing around 1680. While there is no record of the date of introduction to the U.S., it was noted in both George Washington and Thomas Jefferson’s plant lists.

 Early Americans were far more dependent on plants for food than ornamental properties. Nursery catalogues once consisted primarily of fruit producing woody plants and herbaceous materials. It wasn’t until the early 1800’s with the development of real estate and a new focus on picturesque landscapes that Beech trees began to appear in nurseries.

 Characteristics of the Beech tree seemed to embody nature as an art form, in line with the English landscapes that employed the use of large distinctive shade trees as an architectural anchor. Noted horticulturists like Fredrick Law Olmsted and A.J. Downing were on the forefront of bringing the English landscape into the suburbs, cemeteries, and urban parks of a flourishing American populace.

The industrial revolution and subsequent wealth resulted in the building of large palatial estates in areas like Newport R.I. and Long Island, N.Y. Large, distinctive trees were highly sought after to complement the scale of the architecture, and large transplants were not uncommon. Labor was cheap at the time, and trees with root balls as large as 30’ were moved by barge and truck to their new homes.

A vast variety of Fagus sylvatica cultivars have been introduced over the years. The “Atropurpurea” group and “Riversii” varieties feature deep purple leaves. Fastigate varieties such as “Dawyck” offer an option for tight spaces. And who could not be enthralled by the charms of “Pendula”, the gracious Weeping beech?

 In its’ native range, the European beech grows in pure stands, suppressing any understory with dense shade and a shallow root system. A wide crown with a low branching pattern will develop in the open landscape, requiring lots of room to grow. It is intolerant of competition for root space with other plants. They will grow in a wide range of soil conditions, though a moist, well-drained soil with a ph of 5.0 – 6.5 is ideal. Wet or compacted soils with less than 10-15% oxygen levels are not suitable.

 Beech does best in full sun, but will tolerate some shade. The bark is rather thin skinned and easily damaged, especially when breaking dormancy. These and other factors call for special considerations when caring for beech trees.

 Planting – You will need lots of room, and a willingness to dedicate the root zone to the tree. Expand a mulched zone as the tree grows and refrain from planting anything else. Try to find a site with good soil, exhibiting both moisture holding capacity and decent drainage. It may also be advisable to inoculate the planting soil with mycorrhiza obtained from a nearby site where other Fagus sylvatica are established.

 Pruning – European beech trees are fair compartmentalizers at best. As with any tree, structural pruning is best completed by the time the tree is a juvenile. Wound response will be stronger, and the need for making larger wounds in the future will be reduced. Sunscald is a serious concern. Be careful of overexposing bark tissue.

Mature specimens are best left alone except for crown cleaning or pruning involving small diameter cuts. When removing dead wood, it would be advisable to wait until a clear wound collar has formed around the branch, indicating where to cut. Considering its inherent grafting capabilities, crossing branches that have begun to form reaction wood or a graft  are best left alone. While pruning could be performed at almost any time, it is probably best during dormancy or the time between full leaf flush and the beginning of dormancy. Consider weather conditions and the presence of pathogens. Even more important would be the pruning dose. Keep it to a minimum. Make small, proper cuts and avoid making any large cuts at or near the trunk.

Fagus sylvatica is also commonly used as a hedge plant, especially in Europe. Once a tapered form is established, annual late summer shearing is recommended to retain autumnal leaves and provide year-long screening. To re-establish an overgrown hedge, prune during dormancy. If reduction needs to be severe, perform over several seasons.

 Cultural considerations-   Keep it clear. Beech do not tolerate disturbance in the root zone, and it will be difficult to grow anything under it. If possible, let leaf and twig debris remain. For a more uniform look, composted hardwood chips are an excellent choice. Do not use pine bark, as it has been associated with increased risk of Phytopthora canker (more later).

 Monitor moisture – While only moderately susceptible to drought, Beech are intolerant of wet soils, and subject to disease if the situation persists. Monitor site drainage and be aware of sprinkler patterns when irrigation is present.

 Insects- Only a few insect pests tend to be problematic. Wooly beech aphid and occasional caterpillar infestations are a concern, but not usually of much significance. More serious pests would be the Beech wooly scale that is associated with Beech bark disease, and other boring insects associated with stressed trees.

 Disease- As fore-mentioned, Beech bark disease can be a serious problem. It is believed Nectria fungi enter through wounds made by the feeding of the scale insects. Ironically, once infected, the bark becomes inhospitable to the insect. Large portions of the tree may become infected, resulting in the loss of conductive tissue. There is no cure for the disease, but it may be controlled by treating for the insect where noted. Powdery mildew may sometimes be an issue, but usually no more than an aesthetic one.

In the Northeast, Phytopthora is a very serious disease, not uncommon in older specimens. It is thought the life span of a European Beech in the Northeast to be in the 100 – 150 year range, but may be as much as 400 years given the site conditions of its native range. Many of our older specimens greater than 28 inch caliper are declining at an earlier age, and Phytopthora citricola appears to be the initial culprit.

A soil-born pathogen, it is not clear how it enters the tree. First indicators are small, dark, bleeding cankers on the first 5-6 feet of the trunk. The cankers form fissures which can spread and essentially girdle the tree. Untreated, the spiral of decline continues. Ambrosia beetles, attracted to the slightly alcoholic ooze bleeding from the cankers, mine into the tree. The beetles release symbiotic fungi, causing further stress. In time, the Two-lined chestnut borer makes its appearance. Large sections of the tree begin to decline and die, leaving the thin bark subject to sun-scald.

As with any disease, the best way to treat is prevention. Avoid soil compaction and mulch the area with hardwood chips. Keep other plants and turf out. Some groundcover plants such as Vinca are known to host Phytopthora citricola and pine bark mulch has been shown to stimulate its growth. High nitrogen fertilizer should be avoided. Monitor soil moisture and irrigate as needed, avoiding saturation and keeping water from the trunk. Keep pruning to a minimum. You may want to consider a more prophylactic approach on older, stressed trees. A bark spray containing Agri-Fos or its equivalent  may be applied to the lower trunk anytime during the growing season.

If the disease does present itself, the prescribed treatment would be the same as above, with closer monitoring, along with bi-annual treatments of Agri-Fos in the spring and fall.

There are many fine representatives throughout the Northeast, but any lover of this species would surely enjoy a drive down Bellevue Avenue in Newport, RI. Estates with names like “The Breakers”, “The Elms”, and “Chateau-sur-Mer” host magnificent specimens of European beech. Here, you may witness their majesty, along with varying degrees of decline as previously described. Enormous buttress root foundations infer great strength and anchorage to the earth. Cavernous rooms, as stately as those in the nearby mansions are formed under the weeping architecture of the massive “Pendula” varieties. Trunks bear the inscriptions of those who have come and gone along with proclamations of love unresolved. Young trees, many started as cuttings obtained from their predecessor, aspire to attain their inherent dignity.

 The Beech tree where I first met Mr. V is still under my charge, and I marvel at it with as much appreciation as the first day I saw it. Mr. V’s ashes have long since been broken down and absorbed by this tree, his being forever entwined within. As patriarch, his aura abounds here and his family is understandably concerned with the trees health. No pressure here. I have responded mostly by doing nothing. I do make frequent visits and am ready to pounce if there is any indication of disease or a threatening insect population, but the best thing I can do is leave it alone.

If you have the right conditions, consider planting a Beech tree as an act of faith and a gift to future generations. You may not live to relax in its shade, but perhaps your remains will have a peaceful place of internment, and a pathway to the heavens.